");}.wysiwyg .info-box--activity::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--car::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--food::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--info::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--link::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--location::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--tickets::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--times::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--train::after { background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml, ");}.wysiwyg .info-box--travel::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box--savings::after { background-image: url('data:image/svg+xml, ');}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + * { -webkit-margin-before: var(--spacing-p-start); margin-block-start: var(--spacing-p-start);}.wysiwyg .info-box > * + *:is(h2, h3, h4, h5) { -webkit-margin-before: 2.625rem; margin-block-start: 2.625rem;}.wysiwyg img { width: 100%;}.icon { width: 1em; height: 1em; fill: currentColor;}a { color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration-color: var(--color-copy); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease); transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease), -webkit-text-decoration-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}a:hover { color: currentColor; -webkit-text-decoration-color: currentColor; text-decoration-color: currentColor;}/*a[target="_blank"]::after { content: ""; display: inline-block; width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; background-color: currentColor; -webkit-mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); mask: url('data:image/svg+xml, '); -webkit-mask-size: cover; mask-size: cover;}*/*:focus { outline: none;}*:focus-visible { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}[id] { --scroll-margin: 5rem; scroll-margin: var(--scroll-margin);}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { [id] { --scroll-margin: 8.75rem; }}.module { margin-block: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.module.module--less-spacing { margin-block: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.module__title { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.container { margin-inline: auto; inline-size: 100%; max-inline-size: var(--container--width);}.container--wide { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wide);}.container--wider { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--wider);}.container--full { max-inline-size: var(--container--width--full);}.container--left-wide { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wide)) / 2);}.container--left-wider { -webkit-margin-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-start: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wide { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}.container--right-wider { -webkit-margin-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); margin-inline-end: calc((100vw - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2);}form,fieldset { margin: 0; padding: 0; min-width: 0; border: none;}[type="text"],[type="name"],[type="url"],[type="number"],[type="email"],[type="tel"],[type="search"],[type="password"],textarea,select { display: block; margin: 0; padding: 0.4375rem 0.75rem; min-width: 1px; width: 100%; max-width: 100%; min-height: 44px; font-size: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: var(--color-body); border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); -webkit-appearance: none;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { [type="text"], [type="name"], [type="url"], [type="number"], [type="email"], [type="tel"], [type="search"], [type="password"], textarea, select { will-change: background-color, border-color; transition: background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}[type="text"]:hover,[type="name"]:hover,[type="url"]:hover,[type="number"]:hover,[type="email"]:hover,[type="tel"]:hover,[type="search"]:hover,[type="password"]:hover,textarea:hover,select:hover { background-color: var(--gray-1);}[type="text"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="name"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="url"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="number"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="email"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="tel"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="search"]::-moz-placeholder,[type="password"]::-moz-placeholder,textarea::-moz-placeholder,select::-moz-placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]::placeholder,[type="name"]::placeholder,[type="url"]::placeholder,[type="number"]::placeholder,[type="email"]::placeholder,[type="tel"]::placeholder,[type="search"]::placeholder,[type="password"]::placeholder,textarea::placeholder,select::placeholder { font-size: 1rem; color: var(--gray-8);}[type="text"]:focus,[type="name"]:focus,[type="url"]:focus,[type="number"]:focus,[type="email"]:focus,[type="tel"]:focus,[type="search"]:focus,[type="password"]:focus,textarea:focus,select:focus { box-shadow: none; border-color: var(--gray-6);}[type="search"]::-webkit-search-cancel-button { -webkit-appearance: none;}select { -webkit-padding-end: 2.75rem; padding-inline-end: 2.75rem; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23999999' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 320 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M31.3 192h257.3c17.8 0 26.7 21.5 14.1 34.1L174.1 354.8c-7.8 7.8-20.5 7.8-28.3 0L17.2 226.1C4.6 213.5 13.5 192 31.3 192z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E"); background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 1rem; background-position: right 0.75rem center; cursor: pointer;}[disabled="disabled"] { opacity: 0.5; cursor: not-allowed;}.form { padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--gray-2); border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (min-width: 20em) { .form { padding: calc(1rem + 16 * ((100vw - 320px) / 400)); }}@media (min-width: 45em) { .form { padding: 2rem; }}.form__section + .form__section { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}.form__section-title { font-size: 1.25rem; line-height: 1.5; font-weight: bold;}.form__input-container + .form__input-container { -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}[type="submit"]:not([class]),.form__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}[type="submit"]:not([class]) > *,.form__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a),.form__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):is(a):hover,.form__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):active,.form__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}[type="submit"]:not([class]):hover,.form__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}[type="submit"]:not([class]):focus-visible,.form__submit:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.form__submit-container { display: grid; -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem;}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .form__submit-container { justify-items: end; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .form__submit-container .form__submit { width: 100%; justify-content: center; }}label:not([class]),.form__input-label { display: block; font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--color-copy);}label:not([class]) .required,.form__input-label .required { color: var(--red-5); text-decoration: none;}.checkbox,.radio { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: baseline;}.checkbox input,.radio input { grid-column-start: 1; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-highlight);}@-moz-document url-prefix() { .checkbox input, .radio input { transform: translateY(0.375rem); }}.checkbox label,.radio label { grid-column-start: 2;}.checkbox input,.checkbox label,.radio input,.radio label { cursor: pointer;}.snackbar { position: fixed; z-index: 4; padding: 1em; border-radius: var(--roundness);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { -webkit-animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; animation: snackbarEntry var(--timing) var(--ease) forwards; }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) { .snackbar { right: calc(1rem / 2); bottom: calc(1rem / 2); left: calc(1rem / 2); }}@media (max-width: 35.4375em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateY(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar { top: 1rem; right: 1rem; margin-inline: 1rem 2.75rem; max-width: 666px; }}@media (min-width: 35.5em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .snackbar { transform: translateX(calc(100% + 1rem)); }}.snackbar--success { background-color: var(--green-1); color: var(--green-5);}.snackbar--error { background-color: var(--red-1); color: var(--red-5);}.snackbar--has-icon { display: grid; gap: var(--spacing);}@media (min-width: 35.5em) { .snackbar--has-icon { grid-template-columns: 2rem 1fr; align-items: center; }}.snackbar__icon { width: 2rem; height: 2rem;}.snackbar__close { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; position: absolute; top: 0; right: 0;}.snackbar__close > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.snackbar__close > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.snackbar__close-icon { margin-inline: auto 0; align-self: start;}@-webkit-keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}@keyframes snackbarEntry { to { transform: translate(0); }}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="true"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="true"],textarea[aria-invalid="true"],select[aria-invalid="true"] { border-color: var(--red-5);}input[type="text"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="name"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="url"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="number"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="email"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="tel"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="search"][aria-invalid="false"],input[type="password"][aria-invalid="false"],textarea[aria-invalid="false"],select[aria-invalid="false"] { border-color: var(--green-5);}[aria-invalid="true"] + .fv-plugins-message-container,[aria-invalid="true"] + label + .fv-plugins-message-container { color: var(--red-5);}.searchform-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.searchform-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .searchform-toggle { display: none; }}.site-header .searchform-container { position: relative;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header .searchform-container { width: 100%; max-width: var(--container--width--wider); -webkit-margin-before: 1.5rem; margin-block-start: 1.5rem; margin-inline: auto; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header .searchform-container { display: none; }}.search .intro .searchform-container { max-width: 50rem; margin: 0 auto;}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search .intro .searchform-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.searchform { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto; gap: 10px; background-color: var(--color-bg);}.site-header .searchform:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none;}.searchform__input[type="search"] { background-color: var(--color-bg); border: 0;}.searchform__submit { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; align-self: center; background-color: transparent; color: currentColor; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.searchform__submit > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.searchform__submit > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .searchform__submit { will-change: color; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.searchform__submit:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.search-nav:not(:first-child) { -webkit-margin-before: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-start: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2); margin-block-end: calc(var(--responsive-spacing-y) / 2);}.search-nav__list { display: flex; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg); border-block-end: var(--line) solid var(--color-bg);}.search-nav__list-item-link { display: flex; position: relative; top: 2px; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; padding: 0.5em 1.5em; -webkit-border-after: var(--line) solid transparent; border-block-end: var(--line) solid transparent; text-decoration: none; transition: border var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.current_page_item .search-nav__list-item-link { border-color: var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.search-nav__list-item-link:hover { border-color: var(--color-highlight); color: var(--color-highlight);}.search-nav__list-item-count { -webkit-margin-start: 0.5em; margin-inline-start: 0.5em;}.nav-primary { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); font-weight: bold;}.nav-primary a,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary a,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { color: currentColor; line-height: 1.3; transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.nav-primary a:hover,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary a:hover,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body);}.nav-primary a:active,.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle:active,.nav-secondary a:active,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle:active { opacity: 0.8;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; white-space: nowrap; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; width: 100%; min-height: 44px; justify-content: space-between; font-size: 1em;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle > *,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle__icon,.nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle__icon { fill: currentColor; width: 0.75em; height: 0.75em; -webkit-margin-start: 0.333em; margin-inline-start: 0.333em; transition: transform var(--transition);}.nav-primary a,.nav-secondary a { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; text-decoration: none;}.nav-primary a[target="_blank"],.nav-secondary a[target="_blank"] { -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-position: right center; background-size: 1em; background-image: url("data:image/svg+xml,%3Csvg fill='%23fff' xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' width='16' height='16' viewBox='0 0 576 512'%3E%3Cpath d='M576 24v127.984c0 21.461-25.96 31.98-40.971 16.971l-35.707-35.709-243.523 243.523c-9.373 9.373-24.568 9.373-33.941 0l-22.627-22.627c-9.373-9.373-9.373-24.569 0-33.941L442.756 76.676l-35.703-35.705C391.982 25.9 402.656 0 424.024 0H552c13.255 0 24 10.745 24 24zM407.029 270.794l-16 16A23.999 23.999 0 0 0 384 303.765V448H64V128h264a24.003 24.003 0 0 0 16.97-7.029l16-16C376.089 89.851 365.381 64 344 64H48C21.49 64 0 85.49 0 112v352c0 26.51 21.49 48 48 48h352c26.51 0 48-21.49 48-48V287.764c0-21.382-25.852-32.09-40.971-16.97z'%3E%3C/path%3E%3C/svg%3E");}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: center 70%; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 85% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover,.nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-image: none;}.nav-primary .menu > .menu-item-has-children,.nav-secondary .menu > .menu-item-has-children { position: relative;}.nav-primary .sub-menu,.nav-secondary .sub-menu { display: none;}.nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"],.nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block;}.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-primary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle,.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]),.nav-secondary .sub-menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .nav-primary[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary[aria-hidden="false"] { display: grid; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]), .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle { --color-decoration: var(--limette); background-color: transparent; background-image: none; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: underline; -webkit-text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-color: var(--color-decoration); text-decoration-thickness: 0.25em; } .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-primary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-menu-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_item .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current_page_ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-ancestor .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent > a:not([href*="#"]):hover, .nav-secondary .menu .menu-item.current-page-parent .sub-menu-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-copy); color: var(--color-body); text-decoration: none; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { width: calc(100% - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { -webkit-padding-end: 0.5em; padding-inline-end: 0.5em; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .sub-menu { background-color: var(--color-bg); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"], .nav-secondary .sub-menu[aria-hidden="false"] { display: block; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .nav-primary { flex-grow: 1; } .nav-primary, .nav-secondary { display: flex; align-items: center; } .nav-primary a, .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle { padding-inline: 1.5rem; } .nav-primary .menu, .nav-secondary .menu { display: flex; } .nav-primary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon, .nav-secondary .sub-menu-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .icon { transform: scale(-1); } .nav-primary .depth-0 > .sub-menu, .nav-secondary .depth-0 > .sub-menu { position: absolute; left: -0.5rem; top: 100%; margin-top: 1rem; padding: 1rem; min-width: 20rem; background-color: var(--color-accent); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); font-weight: 600; } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-primary .sub-menu a, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a { -webkit-padding-end: 1rem; padding-inline-end: 1rem; -webkit-padding-start: 1rem; padding-inline-start: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); } .nav-primary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-primary .sub-menu a:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu .sub-menu-toggle:hover, .nav-secondary .sub-menu a:hover { background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); } body::after { content: ""; position: fixed; inset: 0; pointer-events: none; -webkit-user-select: none; -moz-user-select: none; user-select: none; background-color: black; opacity: 0; z-index: 3; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { body::after { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.breadcrumbs { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; font-size: var(--font-size-base); color: var(--color-copy); font-weight: 700; text-transform: uppercase;}.breadcrumbs a { color: currentColor;}.breadcrumbs__inner-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap;}.breadcrumbs__item + .breadcrumbs__item::before { content: "/"; display: inline-block; margin: 0 0.25rem;}.breadcrumbs__link { text-decoration: none;}.breadcrumbs__link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.hashtags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0 1rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-copy); text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: bold;}.teaser .hashtags { line-height: 1.3;}.teaser--featured .hashtags { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}@media (min-width: 31.25em) and (max-width: 46.8125em) { .intro .hashtags { -webkit-padding-end: 8rem; padding-inline-end: 8rem; }}.hashtags__item-link { position: relative; z-index: 2; color: var(--color-copy); text-decoration: none;}.hashtags__item-link:hover { text-decoration: underline;}.sharelinks:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.sharelinks__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-weight: 600;}.sharelinks__list { display: flex; gap: 0.5em;}.sharelinks__link { --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 2em; height: 2em; padding: 0.25em; border-radius: 50%; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); transition: background-color var(--transition), color var(--transition);}.sharelinks__link:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.sharelinks__link[href*="twitter"] .icon { width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}.sharelinks__link .icon { width: 1em; height: 1em;}.sharelinks__link[target="_blank"]::after { display: none;}.toc { display: none;}@media (min-width: 0em) { .toc { position: sticky; top: 1rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(1rem + 46px); }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .toc { top: 7rem; } .admin-bar .toc { top: calc(7rem + 46px); }}.toc:not(:last-child) { margin-bottom: 2rem;}.toc.is-shown { display: block;}.toc__heading { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5em; margin-block-end: 0.5em; font-size: var(--font-size-base); font-weight: 700;}.toc__list-item { -webkit-padding-start: 1em; padding-inline-start: 1em; -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-bg); transition: border-color var(--transition);}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] { -webkit-border-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); border-inline-start: 2px solid var(--color-action); font-weight: bold;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.5em;}.toc__list-item[data-toc-current] .toc__list-link:hover .toc__list-link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}.toc__list-link { display: block; padding-block: 0.666em; align-items: center;}.toc__list-link:hover { -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.toc__list-link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teasers { display: grid; gap: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}@media (min-width: 37.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(2, 1fr); }}@media (min-width: 62.5em) { .teasers { grid-template-columns: repeat(3, 1fr); }}.teaser { position: relative; isolation: isolate; display: grid; gap: 1rem; transform: translate(0);}.teaser.teaser--featured { max-width: 45rem; font-family: var(--font-family); font-size: var(--font-size-base); line-height: 1.7;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; gap: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 40% 60%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser.teaser--featured { grid-template-columns: 25% 75%; }}.teaser:hover .teaser__media { transform: scale(1.1);}.teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 4/3; overflow: hidden; background-color: var(--color-bg); z-index: -2;}@media (min-width: 15.625em) and (max-width: 62.4375em) { .teaser__media-container { aspect-ratio: 16/9; }}.teaser__media { position: relative; z-index: -1; width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover; transition: transform var(--transition);}.teaser__heading { font-size: var(--font-size-heading-small); line-height: 1.3;}.teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: -6rem; margin-block-start: -6rem; -webkit-margin-end: 3rem; margin-inline-end: 3rem; -webkit-padding-before: 1.5rem; padding-block-start: 1.5rem; -webkit-padding-end: 3rem; padding-inline-end: 3rem; background: var(--color-body); justify-self: start;}.teaser--featured .teaser__content { background-color: var(--color-bg); align-self: start; justify-self: auto; padding: 2rem;}@media (min-width: 25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -4rem; margin-inline-start: -4rem; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .teaser--featured .teaser__content { -webkit-margin-start: -2rem; margin-inline-start: -2rem; }}.teaser__link { overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; -webkit-text-decoration-color: transparent; text-decoration-color: transparent;}.teaser__link::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 1;}.teaser__link:focus-visible { outline: none;}.teaser__link:focus-visible::after { outline: var(--line) solid currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.teaser__link-text { --color-bg: var(--limette); background-image: linear-gradient(var(--color-bg), var(--color-bg)); background-position: left bottom; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-size: 100% 0.5em; transition: background-size var(--timing) var(--ease);}.teaser__link:hover .teaser__link-text { background-size: 100% 0.75em;}body.loading .loop { opacity: 0.5; pointer-events: none;}.loop__title { -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop__filter.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop__filter.loop__filter--basic { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem;}.loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0.5rem; margin-block-end: 0.5rem;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset-container { -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { display: flex; gap: 0.5rem; width: 100%;}.loop__filter-tax-heading { position: relative; width: 100%; padding: 0; font-weight: bold;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-heading { width: auto; float: left;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; overflow-wrap: break-word; word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-hyphens: auto; hyphens: auto; width: 100%; display: flex; justify-content: space-between; gap: 1em; padding-block: 0.5em; border: none; text-transform: uppercase; text-align: left; color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { color: var(--color-highlight); width: 0.8em; height: 0.8em;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { will-change: transform; transition: transform var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.loop__filter-tax-toggle[aria-expanded="true"] .loop__filter-tax-toggle-icon { transform: scale(-1);}.loop__filter-tax-counter { display: none;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter { -webkit-margin-start: auto; margin-inline-start: auto; -webkit-margin-end: 0; margin-inline-end: 0; align-items: center;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter[data-term-count] { display: flex;}.loop__filter--multi .loop__filter-tax-counter:after { content: attr(data-term-count); display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; width: 1.5rem; height: 1.5rem; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-neutral); border-radius: 100%; background-color: transparent; color: var(--color-highlight); font-weight: normal;}.loop__filter-tax-body { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem;}.loop__filter-tax-body[aria-hidden="true"] { display: none;}.loop__filter-tax-terms { order: -1; font-weight: 600; max-block-size: 13.625rem; overflow: auto;}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax-terms { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.5rem; order: initial;}.loop__filter-term-label { cursor: pointer; -webkit-margin-start: 0.25em; margin-inline-start: 0.25em;}input:focus-visible + .loop__filter-term-label { outline: var(--line) dashed currentColor; outline-offset: 2px;}.loop__filter-term-toggle { width: 1em; height: 1em; margin: 0; accent-color: var(--color-copy);}.loop__filter-tax-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-tax-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-general-apply { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-apply > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-apply:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-apply:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-apply:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter-tax-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); padding: 0.5em 1em;}.loop__filter-tax-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-tax-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-tax-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter-general-reset > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop__filter-general-reset:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop__filter-general-reset:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop__filter-general-reset:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset { padding: 0.1em 1.5em; color: var(--color-copy); background-color: transparent; border: var(--line) solid var(--color-copy); font-size: var(--font-size-increased); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease), border-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-general-reset:hover { color: var(--color-body); background-color: var(--color-highlight); border-color: var(--color-highlight);}.loop__filter-general-reset:disabled { display: none;}.loop__results:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: 2rem; margin-block-end: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container { display: flex; justify-content: center; -webkit-margin-before: 2rem; margin-block-start: 2rem;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-loading { opacity: 0.5;}.loop .loop__load-more-container.is-hidden { display: none;}.loop .loop__load-more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__load-more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__load-more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__load-more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__load-more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.loop .loop__more { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.loop .loop__more > * { pointer-events: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.loop .loop__more:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.loop .loop__more:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.loop .loop__more:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}@media (max-width: 28.0625em) { .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { width: 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; }}@media (max-width: 46.8125em) { .loop__filter--multi { background-color: var(--color-bg); } .loop__filter-tax:not(:last-child) { -webkit-border-after: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); border-block-end: 1px solid var(--color-neutral); } .loop__filter--basic .loop__filter-tax { -webkit-border-after: none; border-block-end: none; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-toggle { padding-block: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-body { -webkit-padding-after: 0.75em; padding-block-end: 0.75em; padding-inline: 1.5em; } .loop .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-container { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 1rem; } .loop__filter-general-reset-container { width: 100%; -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; } .loop__filter-tax { position: relative; } .loop__filter-tax-toggle { -webkit-padding-start: 1.5em; padding-inline-start: 1.5em; -webkit-padding-end: 1.5em; padding-inline-end: 1.5em; border-radius: 4rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); color: var(--color-copy); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) and (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .loop__filter-tax-toggle { will-change: border-color; transition: border-color var(--timing) var(--ease); }}@media (min-width: 46.875em) { .loop__filter-tax-body { position: absolute; top: 0.5rem; left: 0; padding: 1rem; background-color: var(--color-bg); min-width: 18.75rem; max-width: 21.875rem; z-index: 1; } .loop__filter-tax-terms { width: 100%; } .loop__filter-tax-reset, .loop__filter-tax-apply { flex: 1 1 100%; justify-content: center; text-align: center; } .loop__filter-tax-apply { box-shadow: none; } .loop__filter-tax-apply:hover { box-shadow: none; }}.site-header { z-index: 4; display: grid; grid-template-rows: -webkit-min-content 1fr; grid-template-rows: min-content 1fr; grid-template-columns: calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2) auto 1fr calc((100% - var(--container--width--wider)) / 2); padding: 1rem 0; background-color: var(--color-body);}.site-header__nav-container { display: grid;}.site-header__nav-toggle { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; display: flex; justify-content: center; align-items: center; width: 2rem; height: 2rem; padding: 0; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--saitan); --color-background: var(--white); --color-background--hover: var(--salt); background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); grid-column: -2 / -3; justify-self: end; align-self: center; transition: background var(--timing) var(--ease), color var(--timing) var(--ease);}.site-header__nav-toggle > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon) { position: absolute; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0 0 0 0); height: 1px; width: 1px; margin: -1px; padding: 0; border: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus { overflow: visible; cursor: pointer; -webkit-appearance: none; -moz-appearance: none; display: inline-flex; align-items: center; min-height: 44px; min-width: 44px; padding: 0; font-size: 1rem; line-height: inherit; font-weight: inherit; color: inherit; background-color: transparent; border: none; line-height: 1.1; font-weight: 700; --color-text: var(--saitan); --color-text--hover: var(--white); --color-background: var(--limette); --color-background--hover: var(--saitan); padding: 1em 1.5em; background-color: var(--color-background); color: var(--color-text); font-size: var(--font-size-base); text-transform: uppercase; transition: color var(--timing) var(--ease), background-color var(--timing) var(--ease); display: block; position: fixed; inset: var(--spacing) auto auto var(--spacing); height: auto; width: auto; clip: auto; z-index: 99;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus > * { pointer-events: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a) { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:is(a):hover { text-decoration: none;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:active { transform: translateY(1px); opacity: 0.8;}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle > *:not(.icon):focus:focus-visible { outline-color: var(--color-text);}.site-header__nav-toggle:hover { background-color: var(--color-background--hover); color: var(--color-text--hover);}.site-header__nav-toggle[aria-expanded="false"] .icon { width: 2.5rem;}.custom-logo-link { grid-column: 2 / 3; position: relative; display: block; justify-self: start; align-self: center; -webkit-margin-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); margin-inline-end: calc(var(--spacing) * 1.5); color: currentColor; text-decoration: none;}.custom-logo-link--text-only { display: flex; align-items: center; min-height: 2.75rem; font-weight: 700; padding: 0.4375rem 1rem; border: var(--line) solid currentColor;}@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .custom-logo-link { will-change: opacity; transition: opacity var(--timing) var(--ease); }}.custom-logo-link:hover { opacity: 0.7;}.custom-logo { max-block-size: calc(var(--spacing) * 4); width: auto;}@media (max-width: 81.1875em) { .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 2 / 3; grid-column: 1 / 5; -webkit-padding-before: 2rem; padding-block-start: 2rem; -webkit-padding-after: 1rem; padding-block-end: 1rem; } .site-header__nav-container:not([aria-hidden="false"]) { display: none; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .site-header { position: sticky; top: 0; } .site-header__nav-container { grid-row: 1 / 2; grid-column: 3 / 4; grid-template-columns: 1fr auto auto; gap: 0.5rem; align-items: center; } .site-header__nav-toggle { display: none; } .site-header .searchform-container { grid-column: 1 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-primary { grid-column: 1 / 2; grid-row: 1 / 2; } .nav-secondary { grid-column: 2 / 3; grid-row: 1 / 2; }}.intro:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro__inner-container:not(:last-child) { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-x); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-x);}.intro__content-wrapper { position: relative; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); padding: 2rem var(--responsive-spacing-x); background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro--has-media .intro__content-wrapper { -webkit-padding-after: calc(2rem + 25%); padding-block-end: calc(2rem + 25%);}.intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { content: attr(data-advert); display: inline-block; max-width: 8rem; -webkit-margin-after: 1rem; margin-block-end: 1rem; color: var(--color-highlight);}@media (min-width: 31.25em) { .intro__content-wrapper[data-advert]::before { position: absolute; right: var(--responsive-spacing-x); -webkit-margin-after: 0; margin-block-end: 0; }}.intro__content { max-width: 83ch;}.intro__excerpt { font-size: var(--font-size-medium); line-height: 1.5; -webkit-margin-before: 1rem; margin-block-start: 1rem;}.intro__media-container { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; width: 100%; -webkit-margin-before: -25%; margin-block-start: -25%; -webkit-margin-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x)); margin-inline-start: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro__media-container { width: 95%; }}@media (min-width: 81.25em) { .intro__media-container { width: 85%; }}.intro__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}@media (min-width: 48em) { .intro--has-media .intro__inner-container { grid-template-columns: 0.6fr 0.4fr; }}.intro-home:last-child { -webkit-margin-after: var(--responsive-spacing-y); margin-block-end: var(--responsive-spacing-y);}.intro-home__inner-container { background-color: var(--color-bg);}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { position: relative; background-color: transparent;}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__inner-container { padding-bottom: 4rem; }}.intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 1.8/1; margin-inline: calc(0px - var(--responsive-spacing-x));}@media (min-width: 34.375em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.2/1; }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home__media-container { aspect-ratio: 2.8/1; }}.intro-home__media { width: 100%; height: 100%; -o-object-fit: cover; object-fit: cover;}.intro-home__content { display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 1rem; max-width: 44rem; padding: 2rem;}.intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: relative; z-index: 1; -webkit-margin-before: -4rem; margin-block-start: -4rem; padding: 0;}@media (min-width: 43.75em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { margin-inline: var(--responsive-spacing-x); }}@media (min-width: 56.25em) { .intro-home--has-media .intro-home__content { position: absolute; bottom: 0; -webkit-margin-before: unset; 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Panjiayuan Markt: Pekings antike Wunderkiste Go to main content Clemens Sehi
Clemens hat kein Problem damit, am Tag 20.000 Schritte für das perfekte Foto zu machen. Er reist seitdem er denken kann.
Aktualisiert am 2. November 2024
Mao steht felsenfest, den rechten Arm zum Gruß erhoben. Die Glatze glänzt in der Morgensonne. Seine Aura hat kein Stück ihres Glanzes verloren. Es ist acht Uhr am Morgen auf dem Panjiayuan Markt in Peking. China , das Reich der Mitte, ist hellwach. Im Bezirk Chaoyang, jenem Stadtteil, der gerne als Zentrum der Hauptstadt bezeichnet wird, ist viel los auf den Straßen. Die dritte östliche Ringroad ist voller Autos, eines lauter hupend als das andere. Vom modernen Tesla-Schlitten bis zum markanten, grün-gelben Taxi, Baujahr ’98, ist alles dabei. Und mittendrin fahren Arbeiter auf ihren Drahteseln die Straße entlang, ohne sich auch nur einen Hauch um die wild gestikulierenden – und natürlich hupenden – Taxifahrer neben ihnen zu scheren. Peking, wie es leibt und lebt. Die Hektik am Morgen überrascht hier nicht mal mehr den neu zugezogenen Expat. Von den westlichen Ausländern gibt es in der Stadt reichlich.
Mehr Reisetipps für Peking: Mao steht direkt neben der Straße hinter einem schweren Metalltor, auf dem übergroß chinesische Schriftzeichen eingelassen sind. Direkt daneben prangt die englische Übersetzung oder zumindest das, was unsere vierundzwanzig Buchstaben zu übersetzen vermögen. Vierundzwanzig, da können die Chinesen nur lachen.
Panjiayuan ist der Name des Pekinger Flohmarktes, auf dem Mao steht. Lediglich zehn Zentimeter groß ist er und aus Bronze gegossen. Aber er ist beileibe nicht allein mit seinem Gruß. Eine ganze Hundertschaft von Klonen steht auf dem Flohmarktareal verteilt: große und kleine, aus Bronze, aus Gold und aus Eisen. Auch auf Papier gedruckt gibt es ihn, in Postergröße versteht sich. Mao Zedong, der „Große Vorsitzende“, wird bis heute in China wie ein Heiliger verehrt, nicht nur hier auf dem Panjiayuan Markt.
Beijing, wie die Stadt in Mandarin heißt, platzt vor Sehenswürdigkeiten. Himmelstempel, Sommerpalast, Tian’anmen-Platz oder die Verbotene Stadt: Das sind nur einige der zahlreichen Peking Sehenswürdigkeiten . Die Stadt ist ein wahrer Wunderkasten in Sachen chinesischer Geschichte. Und der Panjiayuan Markt so etwas wie seine versteckte Zauberecke.
Alle Peking Sehenswürdigkeiten
Schon beim ersten Spaziergang durch die schmalen Gänge der halb improvisierten Verkaufsflächen wähnt man sich sofort in einem anderen Jahrhundert. Da gerät auch das moderne Peking mit einem Mal völlig in Vergessenheit: die schicken Einkaufszentren, die futuristischen Bauten und die breiten Ringstraßen. Ja sogar der unbändige Lärm der nahen Autolawine klingt plötzlich irgendwie dumpf und weit, weit weg.
Der Panjiayuan Markt in Peking beherbergt antike Schätze und die etwas anderen Souvenirs Hier findet man wirklich immer was Auf dem asphaltierten Boden wurden Decken und Regenplanen ausgebreitet und auf ihnen werden die verschiedensten Antiquitäten dargeboten: alte und vielleicht sogar antike Gegenstände, Kunst und Handwerk, Jade und Schmuck, Musikinstrumente und Bastelarbeiten.
Der 48.500 Quadratmeter große Flohmarkt Panjiayuan in Peking ist schon lange kein Geheimtipp mehr, unter den Einheimischen noch weniger als unter den zugezogenen Ausländern. Auf der Suche nach dem ein oder andere Schnäppchen bemühen sich mittlerweile ebenso in- und ausländische Touristen in diese Ecke von Chaoyang. Viele kommen aus Taiwan, Hongkong und Japan, aber auch aus Europa und den USA. Der Panjiayuan Markt gilt als der billigste Antikmarkt in Peking. Sowas spricht sich herum.
Original oder Fälschung? Eine völlig alltägliche Frage, auf die man als Interessent oft nur ein müdes Lächeln erntet. Eine Antwort bleibt aus, der Sprachbarriere sei Dank. Stattdessen erinnern die müden Gesichter der Verkäufer eher an die der Bronzestatuen neben ihnen. Der alltägliche Job des Feilschens scheint an den Händlern zu zehren. Es soll bis zu 4.000 Standbetreiber auf dem Panjiayuan Markt geben, ganze 60 Prozent von ihnen stammen aus anderen Provinzen und autonomen Regionen, von Zentralchina bis tief in die Mongolei.
Neben Mandolinen, deren hohes Alter in das markante Holz gemasert zu sein scheint, stehen verschiedene Nachbauten antiker Möbel. Oft haben diese einen altchinesischen Stil. Fast so, als hätten sie schon bei Mao im Palast gestanden. Wer weiß, vielleicht haben sie das ja sogar.
Nebenan interessiert sich ein junger, adrett gekleideter, Chinese für die vier Schätze des Studiums, wie sie in China genannt werden. Dabei handelt es sich um einen Schreibpinsel, Tinte, hochwertiges Papier und einen Tuschstein. Die Utensilien sind liebevoll in einen ledernen Umschlag gehüllt. Das sieht schön aus – und alt. Kein Wunder also, dass das Interesse des jungen Mannes nicht zu übersehen ist. Das findet wohl auch der Verkäufer, der den Preis so hoch ansetzt, dass der Passant wieder kopfschüttelnd im Tumult des Marktes verschwindet. Kann Altes so hip sein, dass es einen solch horrenden Preis rechtfertigt?
Da hat der Kollege nebenan schon mehr Glück. Bei ihm wühlt sich eine Frau mittleren Alters gerade eifrig durch eine Box voller antiker, chinesischer Münzen. Ob sie wohl neu oder doch nachgemacht sind? Hübsch sind sie allemal und sie machen sich bestimmt prima in der Wohnzimmervitrine. Sie sucht sich ein Dutzend Geldstücke aus und bezahlt mit einem zufriedenen Lächeln. Eines, das der Verkäufer natürlich gerne erwidert, schließlich beginnt in China jeder gute Markttag mit einem guten Deal und das schon seit etlichen Jahrzehnten.
Auch Möbelstücke findet man auf dem Panjiayuan Markt in Peking Wer etwas Antikes aus China sucht, der wird sicher auf dem Panjiayuan Antikmarkt in Peking fündig Der Panjiayuan Flohmarkt wurde in den 1980er Jahren von einem kleinen Kreis Kleinhändler in einem einfachen Hutong (Wikipedia ), den traditionellen Pekinger Wohnbebauungen, gegründet. Aus der Geldnot heraus verkauften hier eine Handvoll Anwohner am Wochenende ihre Wertgegenstände auf einem improvisierten Gelände im Freien. Schon damals handelte es sich zumeist um Kunstgegenstände aus dem Familienbesitz. Doch der Handel damit war in China strikt verboten. Der Panjiayuan Markt wurde schnell zu einem geheimen Umschlagplatz für Antiquitäten aller Art, zu einem Geistermarkt, von dem man auf Nachfrage der Pekinger Polizei natürlich selbst noch nie etwas gehört hatte.
Dennoch wuchs der kleine Schwarzmarkt mit rasanter Geschwindigkeit zu einem echten Kunsthandwerksmarkt, der bei den kunstverliebten Pekingern bald so beliebt war, dass die Händler ihr Gelände vergrößern mussten. So entstand in einem damals noch bewaldeten Gebiet nahe der Panjiayuan-Brücke eine große Verkaufsfläche. Mehr und mehr Verkäufer kamen aus den ärmeren Provinzen des Landes und hofften ihr Hab und Gut hier gewinnbringend an den Mann bringen zu können. Aus einfachen Bauern wurden Kunsthändler. Aus jahrhundertelangem Familienbesitz wurden rare Antiquitäten, um die man hart verhandelte.
Das alltägliche Treiben auf dem Pekinger Flohmarktgelände wurde von den Behörden toleriert, bis der Kunsthandel im Jahr 1994 schließlich landesweit legalisiert wurde. Das hatte auch Folgen für das Kunstviertel 798 Art District , das sich vom einst alten Fabrikgelände zum hippen Szeneviertel entwickelte. Statt dem versteckten Markttreiben in der Grünanlage ein Ende zu setzen, boten die Behörden den Händlern auf dem Flohmarkt nur ein Jahr später ein neues, richtiges Marktgelände an – der Panjiayuan Flohmarkt von heute war geboren.
Über 20 Jahre später fliegt ein Kinderlachen quer über das Marktgelände. In einem der schmalen Gänge machen sich zwei chinesische Jungs einen Heidenspaß daraus, sich mit Masken der chinesischen Oper gegenseitig zu erschrecken. Lachen hier, Gekicher da. Die Szenerie hat etwas von dem spontanen Aufsetzen von Sonnenbrillen – mit dem Wissen, dass man eine solche überhaupt nicht kaufen würde. Also werden die Masken unter den bösen Blicken des Inhabers wieder zurückgelegt und das rege Treiben geht weiter.
Ob es sich nun bei den Waren um alte Gegenstände handelt oder um neue Dinge, die nur auf Alt gemacht sind, sei dahingestellt, denn auf dem Panjiayuan Markt in Peking steht seit jeher etwas viel Größeres im Mittelpunkt: die Verbreitung der chinesischen Volkskultur. Und das klappt allemal sehr gut.
Zwischen all den herum wuselnden Chinesen und schüchtern umherschauenden Touristen ist hier und da immer mal wieder eine Mao-Figur zu entdecken. In der Abendsonne glänzt die Halbglatze immer noch in voller Pracht. Ob der große Mao Zedong jemals gedacht hätte, dass seine Aura auch über 40 Jahre nach seinem Tod kreuz und quer über einen Flohmarkt in Peking strahlen würde? Der Gedanke hätte ihm sicherlich gefallen.
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